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ROCCALBEGNA

Roccalbegna literally means “the fortress of the Albegna” – the river that divides the historic part of the town from the more recently built one. After its foundation in medieval times, the city passively followed the rest of the territory of Mount Amiata from the Aldobrandesca domination to the government of the Grand Duchy of Tuscany, but it has always stood out for the naturalistic spirit of its inhabitants and their love for large green spaces .

The first thing you notice when arriving in Roccalbegna is its location. Squeezed between a fortress and the steep Mount Labbro, the town appears proud and shy; perfect portrait of its inhabitants, who have always tried to adapt to the environment without damaging its splendid landscape.

Today Roccalbegna is as close to an alpine refuge as there is in Maremma, and staying there is a pleasure for all the senses, with the scent of burning wood, the sound of flowing water and the view over the woods of the valley Albegna.

NOT TO BE MISSED

CHURCH OF ST. PETER PAUL

TO BE SEEN

The first stop to do in Roccalbegna is the Church of Saints Peter and Paul in Piazza XX Settembre. Completed at the end of the 13th century, the church has a beautiful Gothic portal. Inside, the space is bare, untouched since the Middle Ages. To the right is a silk flag that belonged to an anti-Jacobin movement known as “Viva Maria”, active in the 18th century, in vehement opposition to the French occupation of Tuscany.
Follow the via del Cassero up to the ruins of the Cassero Senese, an ancient fortress that offers a fantastic view of the city from above.
Across the valley you can see the ruins of another castle dating back to the Aldobrandeschi era, colloquially known as la Pietra or il Sasso. It is possible to visit it, but the hike will require a couple of hours and a good pair of trekking shoes.
Once back in Roccalbegna, head towards via Palazzaccio to see the 13th century hospital and the Oratory of the Crucifix. The latter is home to a small museum (open on request; 0564 989032; free) which collects the artistic treasures of Roccalbegna, including the works of the 17th century artist Francesco Nasini. The most impressive work preserved there is undoubtedly the Cross by Luca di Tommè. This elaborately painted crucifix dates from 1360 and is said to have saved the city from cholera five centuries later.

NEAR ROCCALBEGNA

Built high up among the oaks in the early Middle Ages, it is one of the smallest, but most charming of the Maremma. The residence was owned by the Piccolomini family until 1960 and was recently opened to the public. The delicate Italian-style garden designed by Pope Pius II Piccolomini and the small Chapel of the Madonnadi Loreto (1650) are worth the visit.

CURIOSITY'

ROCCALBEGNA COOKIES

Roccalbegna is famous for its biscuits, in particular a type of very crunchy savory biscuit, flavored with anise. Locals enjoy them dunked in coffee or vin santo. They can be found in any bakery, but those at Libero Conti (via XXIV Marzo; 0564 989025) are considered the best. Roccalbegna dedicates a special celebration to its biscuits, which takes place on August 14th.

EVENTS

Focarazza of Saint Catherine

November 24th

The small hamlet of Santa Caterina is famous for one of the oldest fire rites in the Maremma, the Focarazza. Since the eighteenth century, on the eve of the feast of Santa Caterina d’Alessandria, local men have braved the fire of a burning pyre to conquer the stollo (a long wooden pole) and transport it to the center of the town. Blackened and blinded by the smoke, the men fight among themselves to win this heavy and still smoking pole and finally take it to their neighborhood. Finally, the pole is cut into pieces and each family gets one to burn in their fireplace. The ashes are scattered across the fields for good luck. Further information on Focarazza and the other traditions of Santa Caterina can be gathered at the small but interesting museum (Via Roma 15; only on request; 0564 969602; free).